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TIER TWO
Soul and spirit
Love your place. A great unrecognized source of strength and comfort is our place. Our countryside, towns, cities, waterways, streams, lakes, oceans, rivers, sky, earth, weather, seasons. Being in your place, simply, as a human—walking through your place, sitting on a park bench, gardening, seeing, smelling, hearing, enjoying, restoring, nurturing has no carbon footprint and feels better than just about anything. When the temptation comes to complexify—get out, sit, walk, breathe, enjoy. Love your place.
Home
Home is where the heart is—and, for most of us, the single largest contributor to our climate footprint. The good news is there has been a quiet revolution in efficiency over the last decade, particularly in electricity-using items. Cutting your electrical use in half just with these Tier Two items is totally possible.
In many cases, local incentives for some of these things are available—check out the awesome DSIRE incentive site for up-to-date information.
Disclaimer: I leave it to you to determine if you need a professional to install switches or any other items below.
Turn things off when not in use. Wow, ok, easy! I hate to start this list with something so obvious, but I am shocked by how much stuff is just left on when not in use. However, note that many of the following suggestions automate shutoff.
Install a programmable thermostat. Heating and cooling are by far the highest energy load in your home. If you regularly forget to change your thermostat when you leave for the day or go to sleep, this is probably the single largest home action you can take. You don’t need anything fancy—a simple Honeywell programmable is a good bet—but if you like smart tech and Wi-Fi access, one of these might work well for you.
Convert all lighting to LED. LED lighting is beyond ready for prime time. LED color rendering quality has gotten better each year; efficiency has improved as well. LED lights are about twice as efficient as fluorescent lights and ten times as incandescent. Warm-toned, 2700 color temperature LEDs are recommended—they light most like warm incandescents. Be sure to properly recycle your old fluorescents, because they contain mercury. LEDs fit into normal screw sockets, so are easily installed. I recommend trying out several different bulbs to see what you like best before replacing all or most of your bulbs. I also suggest purchasing name brand and doing an internet search to see what the latest “best” are. These are my current favorites.
A couple of tougher items:Overhead can lights are notorious air leakers, especially when they run into an attic—often leaking your warm air directly into unheated spaces, creating drafts. I really encourage you to put in an air-lock insert when replacing these bulbs—they work great. I personally prefer these to the integrated airtight replacement bulbs—because you can pick the bulb you like best—but those are fine too.
It seems like most garages have old fluorescent tube lights that just keep hanging on into their flickering sunsets. You will need to replace these fixtures entirely (not just bulbs), appropriately disposing of the old fluorescent tubes, with nice new LED fixtures—you will be shocked by how much better your garage looks (especially after you declutter)!
Install vacancy lighting switches in rooms where lights are often left on unnecessarily. Many families have a hard time getting everyone on board with turning off lights. Vacancy sensor switches, which read lack of motion, can be programmed to shut off after a certain amount of time. The Lutron Maestra switch seems to work well. Note many folks are more familiar with occupancy sensors that turn lights on automatically—and some systems do both. I prefer a configuration that is manual on (based on whether you actually need the light), vacancy off. I prefer a configuration that requires turning the light on manually—when needed—and automatically turns off the light once the room is vacant, if the light isn’t turned off.
Install smart lighting controls for regularly scheduled lights. For lights which tend to be used daily on regular schedules (porch lights, etc.) but which are often forgotten and left on—install a Wi-Fi smart switch and put these on a regular schedule so they are only on when needed. I have had great luck with the Lutron Caseta system, which, though somewhat expensive, has never had Wi-Fi issues and works flawlessly. This system even allows scheduled dimming.
Replace showerheads and faucet aerators with Watersense fixtures. Typical showerheads use 2.5 gallons or more per minute, while Watersense fixtures are designed to give a great shower at less than 2 gallons per minute. The hot water energy savings is significant—about the equivalent of a single solar panel output. I really like High Sierra fixtures; I think they actually provide for a better shower than the old-school high-volume type. And, of course, they save water too, which has embodied carbon benefits.
Dry clothes on a drying rack or clothesline—even just some. Line-dried clothes are a complete pleasure—fresh! During the winter, drying racks work great. Even if you just dry some this way, it’s an easy way to save energy. Also, clothes dryers really wear clothes out, reducing the carbon footprint of replacement.
Get rid of home air leaks—part one (more to come later). No kidding—the average US house completely exchanges its inside air with outside air every 3.5 hours, due to air leaks. Even recently built homes can be pretty bad. I’ve already mentioned overhead can light air locks above. In addition, I recommend as first steps:
a. Weatherstripping all your windows and doors. I prefer the Frost King Premium Rubber Foam adhesive type, which comes in different widths and colors. Also, replace all your door threshold rubber gaskets (either on the threshold or on the bottom of the door) and make sure they actually seal.
b. Sealing all forced air ductwork in crawlspaces, attics, and unheated basements. Any heating or cooling running through forced air is under pressure and wants to escape—and there is a surprising amount of leakage. Sometimes there are actual gaps in ductwork, but often the seams are just not tight. Air sealing mastic is an easy way to seal these gaps.
Minimize irrigation. Irrigation uses a lot of water, which, at least in some areas, represents a lot of embodied carbon. Let your lawn go brown in the summer, and plant only climate appropriate plants—if you have any that need a lot of watering to stay alive, let them go.
Bigger actions at replacement. If you are making any big purchases and replacing anything outlined in Tiers Three and Four, do them now if you can afford them. Given that we must radically reduce our carbon footprint in the next couple of decades, and long-life items last roughly that amount of time, moving forward we need to bite the bullet when these items wear out and replace them with the low-carbon alternative.
Always replace appliances with best-in-class Energy Star items. If you are replacing appliances, get the best-in-class Energy Star version—review the table and find one of the most efficient versions of the size and type you need. If you are replacing a dryer, install a heat pump dryer; if replacing a water heater, install a heat pump water heater; and, if replacing a stove, install an induction version (these are not Energy Star rated for some reason).
If you have a gas stove, get an induction hotplate. Full disclosure—we have gotten rid of all our gas items except our stove (working on it!), but in the interim I bought an induction hotplate. We use it now for probably 90% of our cooking, and it’s awesome. I even take it out on our deck to cook. It’s a great pleasure and uses very little electricity compared to our electric BBQ.
Get rid of your gas or charcoal BBQ and replace with electric. Some of you will be incredulous I’d suggest messing with your barbecue, but I am. Gas is gas! I got a little Weber Q electric and love it.
Get rid of plug-in energy hogs.
Energy hogs tend to fall into two categories:
Items that use a ton of energy when in use.
Items that use a surprising amount of energy when plugged in but turned “off.”
Follow this process:
List everything that is plugged into the wall, throughout your house, in an Excel spreadsheet.
Figure out how much energy they use via two ways:
a. Kill-a-Watt meter. I love these little tools. You simply plug the meter into the wall, then plug the thing you want to measure into the meter, and it tells you how much electricity the item uses. I want you to record two things: how many watts the item uses both when plugged in but not turned on, and when it’s turned on. You should then guess how many minutes a day on average the item is turned on and do the multiplication to figure out your guesstimate for how much the item uses over the course of the year.
b. Home smart learning electricity monitor. (I use Sense.) These monitors measure the real-time details of the electricity moving through the main electrical cable coming into your home well enough to identify individual components. You can actually turn smaller items on and off and see them reflected in the real-time readout. You can also plug and unplug items and see their standby load (energy used when plugged in but off). You can then take things a step further and tell the monitor what the item is. In many cases, the monitor will apply smart learning from other homes and figure out what the item actually is. These systems are particularly good for tracking larger items such as refrigerators, air conditioners, lighting, etc., which are unable to be tracked via a Kill-a-Watt. These systems have a dashboard which then compiles energy use over time by item. Add these things to your list.
Review the list. Stand back and look at the list. Anything surprising, either more or less electricity than you’d expected? It’s amazing how much energy many items still draw when “off.”
Remove and get rid of things you don’t need. This probably won’t account for a ton of items, but it is surprising what we have plugged in that we haven’t used in a long time and really don’t need. Get rid of them, or at least unplug until you actually use them. Garages and guest bedrooms are frequent locations for these items. A notorious item: the really inefficient old fridge in the garage that won’t die and doesn’t really get used that much.
Replace inefficient items that you do use with best-in-class Energy Star alternatives. There has been a revolution in lower energy use electrical items over the last decade—both when fully on and in standby (i.e., plugged in but not on). Remember the “energy vampires” George Bush talked about? Well, a couple decades later much of that has been worked through with better circuitry, etc. The reality is, though, that many of these items last a long time. That old computer monitor you handed down to the kids? It’s rolling up the kilowatt hours. Some of the worst energy hogs include:
a. Anything more than five years old related to video or communications
b. Old TVs, especially plasma
c. Video projector
d. Old computers
e. Plug-in electric clocks (yes!)
f. Old refrigerators
g. Printers
h. Surge protectors
Replace these items with Energy Star-rated equipment. Efficiency varies even within Energy Star—take a look at the appropriate spreadsheet on the Energy Star site to find the most efficient.
Do this review annually
Finally, check out, use, and follow this terrific electrification resource by Rewiring America.
Home is where the heart is—and for most of us, the single largest contributor to our climate footprint.
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Heating and cooling are by far the highest energy load in your home.
If you regularly forget to change your thermostat when you leave for the day or go to sleep, installing a programmable t-stat is probably the single largest home action you can take.
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Many families have a hard time getting everyone on board with turning off lights. Vacancy sensor switches, which read lack of motion, can be programmed to shut off after a certain amount of time.
Line-dried clothes are a complete pleasure—fresh! During the winter, drying racks work great. Even if you just dry some this way, it’s an easy way to save energy.
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Given that we must radically reduce our carbon footprint in the next couple of decades, and long-life items last roughly that amount of time, moving forward we need to bite the bullet when these items wear out and replace them with the low-carbon alternative.
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If you are replacing appliances, get the best-in-class Energy Star version—review the table and find one of the most efficient versions of the size and type you need.
It’s amazing how much energy many items still draw when “off.”
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This probably won’t account for a ton of items, but it is surprising what we have plugged in that we haven’t used in a long time and really don’t need. Get rid of them, or at least unplug until you actually use them.
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There has been a revolution in lower energy use electrical items over the last decade—both when fully on and in standby (i.e., plugged in but not on).
Mobility
Walk, bike, use micromobility, transit, or carpool wherever possible—reduce your car miles by at least 25%.
Back in my urban design days, we used to say that if aliens came to North America they would assume cars were the masters and humans the slaves–because design centered around cars and we did more to serve cars than our fellow human beings.
Particularly in urban environments, there are so many good alternatives to gas cars. My latest favorite are ebikes—in some areas with a good bike network they are as fast or faster than cars, and they get you outside and active. I find simply getting out of the car-only mindset is refreshing and exploratory—life is more interesting. Google transit and walking directions are a great help in figuring out the best way to get around without your car. Get out and explore!
Pick electric vehicles only for ride services like Uber and Lyft. Ride services are incredibly convenient and match well with car-free living, creating an illusion of sustainability, but they account for higher emissions than you driving alone because of the time ride shares operate without passengers. Increasingly there is a “green” option, which means an EV: pick that.
Make air travel a rare treat, not a commonplace occurrence, and get deeply regional; take rail or bus if it’s an option. I address this in depth in the “Why?” section, but it bears repeating: when it comes to climate impacts, flying, especially long distances, is the binger of climate impacts, and many of us are starting to make it commonplace, racking up huge footprints.
Also, if you do travel by air, please travel by coach—first or business class have a per mile carbon footprint three times that of coach.
Some suggestions:
My family has been really getting into exploring locally. I am shocked by how many cool things there are in our city that we’ve never seen before. We often vacation in the nearby countryside and totally love it. Travelling is so stressful—and as we live into our place more deeply, as we learn more about our home, our contentedness grows.
We also realized we were flying to visit other cities while flying right over great places that were just an easy train or bus ride away. We’d never be able to explore everything right here in our own region within our lifetimes. Getting out on foot and on bike lets us slow down, explore, and learn much more—why rush past it all?
If you are in an area with good rail or bus service, please take advantage and don’t fly.
Teams and Zoom are amazing low carbon footprint tools—use them!
I find simply getting out of the car-only mindset is refreshing and exploratory—life is more interesting.
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Ride services are incredibly convenient and match well with car-free living, creating an illusion of sustainability, but they account for higher emissions than you driving alone because of the time ride shares operate without passengers.
Food
Stop eating beef and sheep. If you must occasionally break this rule, eat grass-fed and grass-finished beef or sheep. I suspect this may be met with the greatest resistance—but it makes a huge difference. As an avowed hamburger lover, I find Beyond Beef and Impossible Meats to not only taste terrific, but also sate my appetite like meat.
Eat cow or sheep cheese once a week maximum and make sure it comes from pasture-fed animals. Note: goat cheese is ok.
Eat pork once a week maximum. Another tough one, but reality based.
Eat and drink Fair Trade, Rainforest Alliance, or Equal Exchange certified dark chocolate and coffee only. Chocolate and coffee have very high carbon footprints, mainly because they are often grown on cleared rainforest land. Higher quality products from small farmers (which these certifications source from) tend to come from more established farms which are integrated into forests.
If using products with palm oil, it should be Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) certified. There is an ongoing debate about whether palm oil is ok at all, but it is clear that noncertified palm oil can be bad news, coming from cleared rainforests.
Eat local, organic, in season. It’s way more delicious too! Buying direct from a local farmer is a great way to connect, support, and enjoy.
Leftovers are awesome. 21% of all food sold in stores is ultimately wasted. My family eats fresh and frozen leftovers all the time and they’re great. Eat it all!
21% of all food sold in stores is ultimately wasted.
Stuff and Services
For some reason, Bob Marley’s admonition to “…emancipate yourself from mental slavery, none but ourselves can free our minds…” has rattled around my brain since college. While I don’t agree with it fully (I think it’s more of a group effort, including good professional help), ultimately it is on us. And freeing ourselves from the tyranny of stuff is at the top of that list. This is for some the toughest to deal with, and the hardest to accurately quantify (there’s no meter on the carbon footprint of stuff for the most part). But we can try, and the silver lining might be a simpler, happier life.
Clear the clutter—purge your stuff. This first step T’s us up for a simpler, less stuff-oriented life. Simply go through room by room and pull everything out. If you haven’t used it in the last year, if it doesn’t fit, or if you don’t love the thing, put it in the “get rid of” pile. Goodwill is your friend. You will be stunned by what and how much goes. And it gets back into circulation for someone else to use, rather than let it just atrophy and get thrown away.
Buy less stuff—try a buying fast. I like cool stuff. Audio gear, bikes, birding optics, boats, wine… I spend an inordinate amount of time researching, thinking, and ultimately buying… whatever. Ironically, I then sell it a few years later when I “upgrade” to the next better thing. It all seems reasonable at the time—my hobbies are wholesome(ish)—and none of it is particularly huge. And yet—they have a real impact; and do they really make me happy?
As part of making this website, I did have a couple denouements, this being one. Part of the way through the process, I decided to take a buying fast and…I failed. It lasted for about a week, and then I was back at it. However, there is grace—and as I write this, wrapping up all the website text, I look forward to trying again.
Buy used. Buying something that already exists has a tiny carbon footprint relative to buying something new. Plus, used items often have character, style, history, and are cool. Gen Z already has this figured out.
When you do buy, buy quality for the long haul. Yes, I’m giving you permission to buy nice stuff, when you really need it. I’m going to hazard a considered guess and say that quality, well-made stuff doesn’t have a much bigger carbon impact than less durable crap, but it lasts a whole lot longer. If you expect to have it for a lifetime, or at least sell it or give it away when you’re done with it, durable, quality things have a much lower aggregate carbon footprint than a number of semi-disposable items that last for only a few years.
You get a special dispensation when buying new, high efficiency items. Many of the actions outlined in this website involve replacing something with a high-carbon operations footprint with one that is much lower. While there is a carbon footprint associated with making the more efficient item, the operating carbon savings typically is much greater.
Pick zero-carbon manufacturers and providers. As I explain under the “Why” section, the carbon footprint of goods and services are what I consider a “shared” responsibility…what you buy is your responsibility—but it is on the producers to eliminate their carbon footprint. The great news is that hundreds, even thousands, of companies have begun to decarbonize, some quite aggressively (helping them is what I do professionally). While transparency and consistency is in its early days, try to buy products from the following:
1. Companies that have adopted The Climate Pledge.
2. Companies that have established a Science-Based Target under the Science-Based Target Initiative (actually established a target, not just committed to create one).
3. Companies that are 100% renewably powered (typically marketed on packaging).
4. I consider carbon neutral companies (i.e., those that simply buy carbon offsets) to fall well short of what is needed—better than nothing, but not near enough.
Right now, sorting through the details is too messy for the consumer—but change is happening rapidly, and I expect in a couple years we will be in a better place; watch this space.
Based on Your Money or Your Life, Penguin 2008
Simply go through room by room and pull everything out. If you haven’t used it in the last year, if it doesn’t fit, or if you don’t love the thing, put it in the “get rid of” pile.
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Buying something that already exists has a tiny carbon footprint relative to buying something new. Plus, used items often have character, style, history, and are cool.
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If you expect to have it for a lifetime, or at least sell it or give it away when you’re done with it, durable, quality things have a much lower aggregate carbon footprint than a number of semi-disposable items that last for only a few years.
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Many of the actions outlined in this website involve replacing something with a high-carbon operations footprint with one that is much lower. While there is a carbon footprint associated with making the more efficient item, the operating carbon savings typically is much greater.
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…change is happening rapidly, and I expect in a couple years we will be in a better place.
Buy renewable electricity
Begin the process of getting off fossil fuels now. Some of what is outlined above is about efficiency, and some is about getting off fossil fuels to begin the process of renewable electrification. Even small steps like using non-fossil-fuel transportation or an induction hotplate start us on the journey.
Buy all your electricity as renewable from the utility (if available). This one is huge. While I think buying your own solar electricity system is best and often cheapest per kilowatt (see Tier Three), in many parts of the country you have the option to buy renewable electricity via the utility or other third parties. The way this is done varies, making it a little hard to summarize here, but the high-level pathways are described below. Note that these systems don’t literally transfer 100% renewably created electrons into your home (though your own solar array does do that!)—they are putting renewable electrons onto the overall grid, and you are essentially buying the “renewability” represented by that generation.
If you are in a deregulated electricity market state, buy your electricity from a 100% renewable provider. In about half the US, you can pick who you buy your electricity from, rather than your local utility. In most of these states, there are utilities that provide only renewable power.
If your utility offers a renewable green power option, buy it for 100% of your electricity. Many sole source utilities have an option to buy renewable electricity (typically at a slight premium). The best of these programs have locally identifiable projects that you know are producing your electricity, which has the added benefit of rooting and connecting you to your place.
Renewable Community Choice Aggregation. In yet other areas, local governments have the authority to buy electricity on behalf of their citizens and specify both the rate and how it is generated—in many cases renewably. If you are in one of these cities, you are getting renewable electricity.
Buy your power through a community solar project. This is similar to utility-provided green power, but it’s more direct and community based—typically there is a local solar or wind project which people in the community sign up to participate in and which provide renewable electricity to the subscribers.
Buy Renewable Energy Credits as a last resort only. If the above options aren’t available, buy Renewable Energy Credits that represent the attributes of new renewable generation, and are then retired (i.e., can’t be resold to others later). One provider I like and trust is the Bonneville Environmental Foundation.
For more details and further perspectives on the above options, check out this excellent resource.
Even small steps like using non-fossil-fuel transportation or an induction hotplate start us on the journey.
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In about half the US, you can pick who you buy your electricity from, rather than your local utility. In most of these states, there are utilities that provide only renewable power.
Finance
These items do not show up on your carbon footprint calculation, but they are important in reducing your life’s footprint.
Divest your retirement portfolio of fossil fuel stocks. There is growing momentum to divest of fossil fuel company ownership, particularly in higher education. Acknowledging that stocks are not typically held for long periods, fossil fuel stocks will become stranded assets over time—i.e., assets without value because no one buys the product—especially once we reach a point in our climate emergency where fossil fuels will be forcibly abandoned (I believe that day is coming in most of our lifetimes). Please note I make no claims one way or another about the financial soundness of this approach.
Check out this great resource to identify fossil-fuel-free investment options.
Note: I am not a financial advisor!
There is growing momentum to divest of fossil fuel company ownership, particularly in higher education.
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We will never fully resolve our climate crisis until we take personal responsibility for eliminating our footprint instead of thinking tree planting programs will solve it—but it is certainly better than nothing, and far better than flying.
Get rid of airline mileage plan credit cards and get a carbon offset one instead. We have a ridiculous number of airline miles built up over the years from our mileage plan credit card. Banking air miles removes a barrier to air travel (“it’s free!”). Instead, cash in those miles to pay for some fun local travel!!!
I would instead encourage you to turn this on its head and get a credit card which supports tree planting or buys carbon offsets based on purchases. I do ask that you ignore the hype and magical thinking some of these credit cards promote. We will never fully resolve our climate crisis until we take personal responsibility for eliminating our footprint instead of thinking tree planting programs will solve it—but it is certainly better than nothing, and far better than flying. Or, get a cash back credit card and use the returns to fund your decarbonization efforts.
Climate advocacy
Find like-minded colleagues and advocate that your employer set and pursue zero-carbon operations. Speaking in the most general way possible, about half our carbon footprint in the developed world comes from the world of living, and half from the world of work. Many businesses are really getting after their carbon footprint, but most are doing nothing. Because of worker scarcity, businesses and organizations are more inclined to listen to what their employees want. My own company is in the middle of an incredible journey of becoming zero carbon—all companies need to do the same.
Carbon offsets?
Buy a good carbon offset annually. Almost all serious climate responsible systems, organizations, and people I know agree that following a path of true decarbonization (i.e., reducing carbon-producing activities all the way to zero) is the only way we will avoid a climate catastrophe. Carbon offsets, which do things like tree planting and carbon sequestration, do not get rid of the problem and, to a degree, simply institutionalize naturally occurring planetary sequestration. I view these carbon offsets as a very dangerous red herring—suggesting we can deal with the climate crisis by buying our way out of them through cheap tree planting in the developing world.
With that trashing, I’m now going to suggest you do annually buy carbon offsets equal to your carbon footprint, in addition to everything else here. This is because I think carbon offsets do make some difference—in particular, higher quality, higher credibility ones, especially where carbon sequestering land is set aside and protected. I encourage you to find one you like, that has a specific place and action, that you can form a long-term relationship with: here’s ours.
Offsets, like tree planting and carbon sequestration, do not get rid of the problem and, to a degree, simply institutionalize naturally occurring planetary sequestration.
BASIC COACHING
Reality based tips for successfully reducing your carbon footprint.
TIER
ONE
Simplify.
Calculate your
carbon footprint.
TIER
TWO
Easier but consequential
actions.
TIER
THREE
More
challenging
steps.
TIER
FOUR
The max.